Agra: Capital of the Mughals
I get a peculiar feeling now that I’m leaving behind Rajasthan in this story. We have spent the last 7 blog posts talking about this fascinating desert state. Yet, as we crossed the border into the state of Uttar Pradesh, new adventures were awaiting us. Earlier we visited Delhi and Jaipur, but Agra makes up the last missing part in the trio colloquially referred to as the Golden Triangle. This area is probably the most iconic part of India.
The driver that picked us up in Agra was a most welcoming and friendly individual. He helped us to a chai which were served in a traditional clay cup, then he brought us to the hotel where we would spend the rest of that evening resting. Next day he would come pick us up and bring us sightseeing.
After having a lovely talk with an Indian couple in the hotel while eating breakfast, we were ready for another day of sightseeing. I remember Boye remarking how he was looking forward to the change of pace and scenery when we would arrive in Rishikesh (our next destination), but that it would be amiss to not first take in some of the famous sights of Agra. Our first stop of the day was a short drive back towards the Rajasthani border to see one of the major Mughal sites, which had been recommended to me by a friend back in Norway.
A short drive from Agra takes you to Fatehpur Sikri, the long-abandoned but beautifully preserved capital of Emperor Akbar. Built in the 16th century, this UNESCO World Heritage Site reflects Akbar’s vision of combining different cultures and religions. The Buland Darwaza, a towering gateway, welcomes you to a complex of palaces, mosques, and courtyards. The Jama Masjid and the tomb of Sufi saint Salim Chishti add a spiritual aura to the site, while the intricate architecture of the Diwan-i-Khas amazes till this day . Though Fatehpur Sikri was abandoned due to water scarcity, its echoes of history remain alive in its majestic ruins, making it a must-visit for history enthusiasts, such as myself.
As we were looking at an abandoned village on the opposite side of Fatehpur Sikri from where we came from, an old farmer came strolling past us. His water buffalo looked healthy and strong, and he was proud to show it off to us. He told us that there were still several farmers cultivating nearby, which made me question whether calling this an abandoned site was truly fitting. The use of water buffalos seems to be still prevalent in India.
In my historical master thesis I wrote about agriculture in Egypt during the 1950's and 1960's. The Egyptian peasants also preferred to use water buffalos to plough their fields. Water buffalos are tough animals and can drag a sizable plough behind them. Slowly tractors are replacing these animals in the Global South countries. This is to me a telling picture of where modernity is headed, with complex and polluting machines everywhere. I think of this old man, and the many farmers I saw across India, and wonder if this simpler yet enduring way of cultivation is about to disappear. Are we then better off for it, or does the old mantra: “Simple is often best” still hold up?
We took a break to buy water on the road back to Agra from Fatehpur Sikri. I witnessed these poor monkeys being kept in bondage to be economically exploited, and I felt very sorry for them.
Our next stop was the famed Taj Mahal, but before we could enter the monument's inner area, a school teacher begged us for pictures with him and his students. The weird feeling of almost being a celebrity because one is a white Westerner never entirely escaped us. Although I wanna point out that the vast majority of people, especially in the cities, left us alone.
Agra is most famous for the Taj Mahal, built by the Mughals. The Mughal empire was one of the largest and most famous of the Northern Indian states. Similar to Akshardham in Delhi, this majestic marble structure in Agra stands on the banks of the Yamuna River. Built in the 17th century by Emperor Shah Jahan in memory of his beloved wife, Mumtaz Mahal, this UNESCO World Heritage Site is a masterpiece of Mughal architecture. Its white marble facade glows brilliantly under the changing daylight, while intricate inlays of semi-precious stones bear witness to the advanced craftsmanship of India.
The mausoleum, with its iconic onion-shaped dome and surrounded on four sides by the tall minarets, is the highlight of the Taj Mahal complex. However, the grand entrance gate (Darwaza-i Rauza) and the other impressive buildings within the complex (the Mosque, the Jawab, the Mehman Khana) are equally astonishing architectural marvels. The complex also houses a vast and well kept Mughal garden, with workers cleaning up the lawns even as visitors were gazing in astonishment at the marvelous and majestic structures. The Taj Mahal was built by emperor Shah Jahan in remembrance of his wife Mumtaz Mahal. This is why the locals describe it as an enduring symbol of love and devotion.
After visiting the Taj Mahal, our driver and guide brought us to a marble workshop, where we could see how the craftsmen patiently and painstakingly performed their craft. I was told that marble handicraft is a rarity in India, and that we wouldn’t find this kind of craft anywhere else in India other than in Agra.
As should already be known by readers of my earlier blog posts, handicraft is still a living and thriving business in India. However, Agra was the only place we ever witnessed marble handicrafts such as these.
I was sorry to leave Agra so soon after arriving there, but Rishikesh was lurking in the back of my mind, and I knew how excited Boye was about this yoga Ashram type retreat we were headed to next.
On the train to Haridwar (which is the closest train stop to Rishikesh), we met these three lovely Indian ladies, who shared their homemade dinner with us. Generally speaking we met a lot of open and friendly people on all the train rides we took. This is already the end of our story in the state of Uttar Pradesh, as next time we will be arriving in Haridwar and then finally Rishikesh, located in the state of Uttarakhand. Have a lovely weekend my dear readers!